This section describes the rest of the equipment used to play the game. Although Subbuteo was renowned for the production of a vast range of accessories over the years, there are only a few elements needed to actually play.
Balance (no, not that sort!)Any game can be ruined by being unbalanced in play (like having too many ‘S’ tiles in a game of Scrabble – it would spoil the challenge).
With so many different types of equipment to play Table Soccer (there are a mind boggling array of balls, pitch types, bases and figures produced over the years) it is vital that the different pieces of equipment for a game all match up in terms of play. This is already recognised - ‘Old’ Subbuteo and the modern game have diverged in terms of equipment and style. The traditional form of the game is a third way, the curling capabilities of the players, matched with a small ball and small goals on a baize pitch gives a slower, but more skilful and tactically demanding version. Changing any of the elements will affect the way the game is played, in my view that change usually detracts from the experience. |
Having said that, I am always experimenting with new materials to try and enhance the game, keep visiting to stay up to date!
Goals
The original Subbuteo goals were wire framed. Later they were manufactured in plastic, with many different styles and designs coming and going over the years.
The standard size of goal is 125 x 60mm. A smaller goal was introduced in 1952, which was 111 x 54mm and designed for use with the smaller (18mm) ball. The rest of this section describes how to build your own metal framed goals.
The standard size of goal is 125 x 60mm. A smaller goal was introduced in 1952, which was 111 x 54mm and designed for use with the smaller (18mm) ball. The rest of this section describes how to build your own metal framed goals.
The Frame
First, decide on the dimensions of the goal that you want to make (the standard size for the smaller Subbuteo goal is 111mm x 54mm). Then decide on the depth of the goal. The deeper the goal is, the more likely it is to keep the ball inside when a goal is scored. However, bear in mind the deeper the goal the less reach you will have with your keeper!
The goal shown is a version with a low crossbar, as part of an ongoing 5-a-side project
The length of rod you need will be:
Width of the goal + 4 times the height of the goalposts + 2 times the depth of the goal + 2 times the goal depth minus 1.5cm each
First, decide on the dimensions of the goal that you want to make (the standard size for the smaller Subbuteo goal is 111mm x 54mm). Then decide on the depth of the goal. The deeper the goal is, the more likely it is to keep the ball inside when a goal is scored. However, bear in mind the deeper the goal the less reach you will have with your keeper!
The goal shown is a version with a low crossbar, as part of an ongoing 5-a-side project
The length of rod you need will be:
Width of the goal + 4 times the height of the goalposts + 2 times the depth of the goal + 2 times the goal depth minus 1.5cm each
Once you have cut it to length, find the centre of the rod and measure half the goal width out in each direction. Bend the rod at 90 degrees at this point on each side, so that both ‘legs’ point in the same direction and are level with each other.
Measure the height of the goal along each leg and bend so the ‘goalmouth’ is at right angles to the legs. Measure the depth of the goal and bend each leg upwards, so the reminder of the leg is parallel to the post forming a rear upright stanchion. Measure the height of the post and bend the remainder back towards the junction of the crossbar and post. The Net Cut a piece of netting the width of the crossbar + twice the height of the goal by the height of the goal + the depth of the goal. Cut two squares from one of the long edges. The edges of the squares are the length of the height of the goal The Posts and Crossbar The next stage involves compressing the binder to a shape which will wrap around the brass rod. In order to do this you need a length of metal rod which is slightly larger than the frame (approx. 2mm), two lengths of metal angle, two staples and some clothes pegs (Figure 6). For each goal cut a length of binder which is the width of the goal + twice the height of the goal + 10mm Put the rod through the binder with at least 10mm of rod protruding from each end. Next, place the two pieces of angled metal parallel to each other, with a channel between the two. Use the staples across this channel to support the rod. Place the binder and rod into the channel, with the staples supporting each end of the rod. Press the rod down gently so it is level with the top edge of the metal angle, the staples should bend slightly. Use the clothes pegs to hold the whole assembly together. Place the assembly in an oven at around 100 degrees centigrade. The plastic of the binder will soften and the tension from the pegs will squeeze it around the metal rod, which will begin to lift upwards. Once this has taken place (after only a minute or two) remove from the oven and allow to cool. Next, trim away the flaps, leaving a ‘C’ shaped cross section. Cut the posts and crossbar to slightly longer than the finished lengths and mitre the points where the posts and crossbar meet, using a piece of coarse sandpaper or a file. Assembly Stitch the long edge of the net to the crossbar and posts, this is to hold the netting in place until the posts and bar have been fixed. Make sure the netting is evenly spaced and reaches to the base of the posts on each side. Take the crossbar piece and clip it onto the metal frame, catching the netting inside and fixing it in place. It may be necessary to use fine pointed pliers to push the rod into the recess of the crossbar. Carry out the same procedure with each post. Stitch together the two edges of the cut outs at the rear of each side of the net. Note: Do not stitch the net to the rear stanchion. |
Fitting the goal
Place the goal on the pitch and mark the locations of the posts and stanchions.
Pierce holes at the four points.
Lift the net away from the frame and with the goalmoutn upside down, and facing away from the pitch thread the ends of the frame through the holes where the goalposts will be. Thread the ends through the rear pair of holes and ‘roll’ the goal on its frame until the goal is facing the right way.
Pull the net down over the stanchions. If the net tends to 'ride up' then use map pins at the rear corners to hold it in place.
Place the goal on the pitch and mark the locations of the posts and stanchions.
Pierce holes at the four points.
Lift the net away from the frame and with the goalmoutn upside down, and facing away from the pitch thread the ends of the frame through the holes where the goalposts will be. Thread the ends through the rear pair of holes and ‘roll’ the goal on its frame until the goal is facing the right way.
Pull the net down over the stanchions. If the net tends to 'ride up' then use map pins at the rear corners to hold it in place.
Balls
Over the years, Subbuteo has been played using three sizes of ball (each produced in several styles).
25mm – the ‘big ball’ which was provided with Subbuteo sets from the19 40’s until the 1980’s. It was the standard ball of its time, and weighs about 1.4g (on average). It is still used today by enthusiasts of ‘Old’ Subbuteo. This ball is clearly designed with the beginner in mind, providing a large target and being easy to chip. The downside being it is cumbersome in play, and large in comparison with the players. The picture below shows an example of the original two coloured ball supplied with the early sets, a 'standard' brown ball, and a smooth competition ball produced by the Swiss-T company (thanks to John Turpin for this example)
18mm – this ball, weighing an average of 0.54g was introduced in 1952 and produced until the mid 1980’s. Advertised for the more experienced player, this ball offered a smaller target and was more challenging to chip. It was also more
sensitive, the same amount of force moves the smaller ball about 15% further on a baize pitch when compared to the 25mm one. It is the ball that should have become the ‘standard’ and is matched for use with traditional style players.
Modern balls of the same size are still available, but these ‘training’ balls are heavier than the originals and are more suitable for modern player styles.
sensitive, the same amount of force moves the smaller ball about 15% further on a baize pitch when compared to the 25mm one. It is the ball that should have become the ‘standard’ and is matched for use with traditional style players.
Modern balls of the same size are still available, but these ‘training’ balls are heavier than the originals and are more suitable for modern player styles.
22mm – introduced in 1969, towards the end of the Traditional player's production. This has become the ball most widely used in the modern game. Unfortunately this ball is heavier, at an average of 1.43g, making it the least responsive. This additional weight, and smaller size means that given the same force, it only travels about half the distance of a 25mm ball on a baize pitch. It was clearly designed for use with the larger, heavier bases which followed on from the flat figures. Its introduction served to make the traditional players less competitive against the more modern forms, and took some of the skill and subtleties away from games played between flat players using this ball.
KeepersThe traditional flat teams are the only ones manufactured with a goalkeeper which is the same in shape and form at the outfield players. The goalkeeper is attached to a handle, originally of wire, which passes through the back of the goal and allows the keeper to make saves.
The first goalkeeper was on a square base, but this was soon changed to a playing base with a hole for the handle at the rear. This allowed the keeper to be removed from its handle and used as a ‘kicking’ keeper. One drawback of this was the fit between handle and base would become loose after repeated removal and replacement. To resolve this problem individual kicking keepers were eventually released. |
Originally the keeper was made of the same material as the players, and
was not as capable of preventing shots as a more robust figure. They were regularly reinforced with a matchstick or similar. Pendle Falcon produce a kicking keeper as part of each team. Currently, a more robust keeper, using a thicker plastic, and fitted to a modern plastic control rod (supplied by Santiago Table Soccer) is being developed. It is shown here, to the left of the original Subbuteo design . |
Pitch
Apart from the first sets, with instructions on how to mark up 'smooth but thick cloth' (generally taken to mean an Army blanket), cotton baize has been the material of choice for the Traditional Subbuteo pitch.
This surface offers a balance between curling, straight line movement and ball travel which cannot be reproduced with more modern pitch types.
Early Subbuteo sets came with a diagram for marking out the pitch, as shown below.
This surface offers a balance between curling, straight line movement and ball travel which cannot be reproduced with more modern pitch types.
Early Subbuteo sets came with a diagram for marking out the pitch, as shown below.
The dimensions are as follows:
Playing Area: 48x32 inches [122x81cm]
Goal Area: 2.5 inches [6.5cm] each side of posts and the same distance forward (B)
Penalty area: 7 inches [18cm] each side of posts and forward (A)
Penalty Spot: 5 inches [13cm] from goal line
Centre Line: Halfway between the two goals (C)
Centre Circle: 5 inches [13cm] radius (This should this be diameter, judged by the scale drawing)
Semi Circles: 9 inches [23cm] from centre spot with the ends meeting the touchline 15 inches [38cm] from the Centre line.
Note: No area outside touch lines defined, no corner arcs (although shown on pic) no ‘D’s on Penalty Area.
The 1947 Rules allow shooting only when the ball and the attacking player are within the Semi-Circle. However, even at this early stage, there is an alternative rule (which is hidden away within the 'Spin' leaflet that comes with the set. This alternative rule allows a shot when the ball is closer to the goal line than the halfway line, and the attacking player is in the opponents half. The rules note that In this case there is no need for the semi-circle to be included on the pitch.
Playing Area: 48x32 inches [122x81cm]
Goal Area: 2.5 inches [6.5cm] each side of posts and the same distance forward (B)
Penalty area: 7 inches [18cm] each side of posts and forward (A)
Penalty Spot: 5 inches [13cm] from goal line
Centre Line: Halfway between the two goals (C)
Centre Circle: 5 inches [13cm] radius (This should this be diameter, judged by the scale drawing)
Semi Circles: 9 inches [23cm] from centre spot with the ends meeting the touchline 15 inches [38cm] from the Centre line.
Note: No area outside touch lines defined, no corner arcs (although shown on pic) no ‘D’s on Penalty Area.
The 1947 Rules allow shooting only when the ball and the attacking player are within the Semi-Circle. However, even at this early stage, there is an alternative rule (which is hidden away within the 'Spin' leaflet that comes with the set. This alternative rule allows a shot when the ball is closer to the goal line than the halfway line, and the attacking player is in the opponents half. The rules note that In this case there is no need for the semi-circle to be included on the pitch.
In 1980, a flocked pitch on a rubberised backing (Astropitch) was produced by Subbuteo. It caused something of a revolution (remember Traditional figures had been lost by this stage) it enhances sliding of players and provides a flat surface with the minimum of effort.
My experiments have shown that for a given force applied, the ball travels about 20% less far than it would on baize. The low friction pitch surface (which is good for sliding players) causes skidding of the ball, it doesn’t hold the pitch surface as much.
Curling a player on an Astropitch is much more difficult, as the low friction of the surface makes the spinning motion of the base skid rather than grip the surface. This leads to more falling over, as the rotation isn’t there to ‘pull’ the figure back upright. It also makes low speed delicate curls virtually impossible. This type of pitch benefits heavier players and straight line play.
I have recently obtained a variety of woollen baize pool and snooker cloths from snookerandpool.co.uk The thicker cloth makes curling more consistent and, surprisingly, straight line movement is more stable too. I have taken close-up pictures of the cloths I have tried so far and put them in the gallery below
The texture of woollen baize varies considerably between different cloths. The coarser the cloth the slower the pitch. Coarse woollen baize performs like a cotton pitch in terms of the distance the ball travels. However, the finer texture woollen baize increases the roll of the ball significantly (over 30% further). This has proven to detract from play when using the small ball. As it rolls further, it is moving more slowly towards the end of its roll than it ever would on a cotton pitch. This 'slow roll' exaggerates the uneven weight distribution of these balls (due to the seam weld) and means that it begins to wobble and curl of its own accord! Due to this I would suggest the finer cloths are really only suitable for use with the heavier, larger types of ball.
Some snooker cloths also have a 'nap', the fibres all point in the same direction. This is also an issue when using a light small ball, as the ball movement tends to be influenced by the direction of the nap. These pitches are probably best avoided in the Traditional game!
My experiments have shown that for a given force applied, the ball travels about 20% less far than it would on baize. The low friction pitch surface (which is good for sliding players) causes skidding of the ball, it doesn’t hold the pitch surface as much.
Curling a player on an Astropitch is much more difficult, as the low friction of the surface makes the spinning motion of the base skid rather than grip the surface. This leads to more falling over, as the rotation isn’t there to ‘pull’ the figure back upright. It also makes low speed delicate curls virtually impossible. This type of pitch benefits heavier players and straight line play.
I have recently obtained a variety of woollen baize pool and snooker cloths from snookerandpool.co.uk The thicker cloth makes curling more consistent and, surprisingly, straight line movement is more stable too. I have taken close-up pictures of the cloths I have tried so far and put them in the gallery below
The texture of woollen baize varies considerably between different cloths. The coarser the cloth the slower the pitch. Coarse woollen baize performs like a cotton pitch in terms of the distance the ball travels. However, the finer texture woollen baize increases the roll of the ball significantly (over 30% further). This has proven to detract from play when using the small ball. As it rolls further, it is moving more slowly towards the end of its roll than it ever would on a cotton pitch. This 'slow roll' exaggerates the uneven weight distribution of these balls (due to the seam weld) and means that it begins to wobble and curl of its own accord! Due to this I would suggest the finer cloths are really only suitable for use with the heavier, larger types of ball.
Some snooker cloths also have a 'nap', the fibres all point in the same direction. This is also an issue when using a light small ball, as the ball movement tends to be influenced by the direction of the nap. These pitches are probably best avoided in the Traditional game!